Tuesday 28 June 2011

Framlingham Castle

Deep in the heart of the Suffolk countryside lies the village of Framlingham, not a remarkable village really; it has a market square, a couple of pubs, a hotel, some old buildings and an even older church.

The village does have a remarkable castle though, not only is it the first castle built in England without a Keep in the 12th century, it has a high curtain wall 2.5 metres thick and 13 towers linked by a high connecting walkway instead. It looks quite peculiar as all of the towers have high ornate Tudor chimneys which most fulfil no purpose at all but to simply make the castle look a bit like a stately home instead of a castle. The place was besieged by King John in 1216 but the siege was the shortest of the Barons war lasting only two days before surrendering.

But the most remarkable thing about the castle is that for a brief few days in 1553 it was the centre of the armed struggle for the succession to the Tudor throne.

Edward VI, died on July 9th and reneged on his father’s will to have Mary in the line of succession and named Protestant Lady Jane Grey as the rightful heir. The Duke of Northumberland proclaimed Jane Queen at Syon house on the Thames. Mary was in East Anglia and was urged to flee the country, but other supporters persuaded her to stay and many flocked to her banner at Framlingham, Mary marched on London on July 24th and the rest as they say is History.

Right next to the castle is the Church of St Michael, itself quite remarkable inside. It was Edward VI himself who ordered the completion in 1553. The building is unusual because little church construction was being carried out at this time of great uncertainty. Inside lie the tombs of several main Characters from the Tudor period. Henry Fitzroy, Henry VIII bastard son, The 3rd Duke of Norfolk, uncle to both Ann Boleyn and Catherine Howard. Henry Earl of Surrey “The Poet Earl” this tomb wouldn’t be out of place at Westminster Abbey it is that ornate.

There are the two wives of the 4th Duke of Norfolk in one tomb, he lost his head when plotting to marry Mary Queen of Scots, and their effigies are set apart with a large space in the middle. It has been suggested that the large space between the effigies was reserved for Norfolk's third wife or himself or even perhaps Mary Queen of Scots. We know where Mary Queen of Scots did lie at Peterborough and now lies in Westminster Abbey. Conjecture is a fascinating argument for the Tudors.

These two places of Tudor history puts Framlingham firmly on the must see list for the Tudor enthusiasts.

Blickling Hall

Tudor Festival

In between rain showers, Blickling Hall in north Norfolk put on it’s finest show in this weekend Tudor festival. There was Henry and all his wives parading in their fabulous costumes and, a real treat, little Edward looking every inch a future king in his red robes too. There was archery, gunfire, falconry and apothecary, spinning craft, needlework and an executioner to keep the crowd entertained.

A main feature was a large log roasting fire that was roasting the King’s dinner of beef what else?
The King was entertained during his dinner by a juggler and fire breather and the crowd were suitable impressed by the group of musicians all the while providing a background of period music.

Blickling Hall is the birthplace of Ann Boleyn though she wouldn’t much recognise the place now as it was completely remodelled in 1629. It now has high gable facades all around the house but it’s Tudor heart remains quite distinct. Many high typically Tudor ornate brick chimney stacks on the central core of the building can be seen high above any of the Jacobean facades and gives the building a dignified look of power and money. The Tudor stables are still here on both side of the impressive driveway up to the main front door of the house, with the visitor centre and cafĂ© in one arm and offices in the other.

The grounds and gardens are huge and a delight to walk around, there was a wedding on the day in the Orangery so the bridal party had to walk through the gardens to get there. Also there was a Shakespeare’s “Midsummer nights dream” being played at night with the house frontage as a backdrop but we couldn’t stay for the performance.

A really good place to visit and if you combine it with other places in the area you can have a fine cultural weekend.

Monday 13 June 2011

Lewes and Michelham

Day 12
Our last full day together, beginning with a stroll around this medieval county town of Lewes to see the Norman castle and town museum, there was a short film about the town from pre Roman times right up to the present era and the Bonfire tradition see www.lewesbonfirecouncil.org.uk for some amazing scenes of costumed torchlight parades through the town. The castle is mostly ruins but you can climb up the top of the keep and are rewarded by superb views over the South Downs and the river Ouse Valley.

Anne of Cleves House given to her as part of the divorce settlement is a small place, a Weald hall house and it contains the Sussex Past exhibitions of Iron Making, and of general life in the town, the kitchen is set out as it would have been in 1540. There was a small school group there in the top floor being taught how the place was constructed.

The ruins of Lewes Priory are there to walk around. This priory was singled out by Thomas Cromwell, he employed an Italian engineer to blow it up, and it was a huge place with a church bigger than Peterborough Cathedral and was a wealthy place for the Abbot.

On to Michelam Priory about 12 miles away, this priory was looked at by Cromwell but he decided he wanted it, instead of blowing it up. It was also given to Anne of Cleves as part of the divorce settlement. It has suffered from neglect in the past but the chairman of P&O Shipping bought the place after WWII and gave it to the Sussex Archaeological Society to have and maintain and they have done a good job since then to preserve the place.

On to London where we stayed at our final Hotel The Gore in Kensington they have many themed rooms among them is the Judy garland room, You can sleep in the very bed once owned by Judy and yes the Ruby slippers are there too.

Our final event and meal together was a Tudor Banquet in St Katherine’s Dock right by the Tower of London. The evening comes complete with entertainment, jugglers, singers, dancers, sword fights and of course Henry VIII himself. Just shout wench and a jug of beer will appear on the table, it was hugely entertaining and enjoyable last evening together.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Thursday 9 June 2011

Arundel Castle

Day 10 Arundel castle

Today we had a nice gentle start with a scenic detour drive to Hartfield East Sussex the home of “Winnie ther Pooh” ( check the spelling in the book.) and we stopped off at Pooh Corner ( a shop dedicated to all things Winnie). Yes all the places in the book are real! And some of our party bought the rules of Pooh sticks from the shop.

We then stopped at Gills Lapp on Ashdown Forrest to see some of the real places from Winnie ther Pooh, the Enchanted Place and the Heffalump trap. They are real places I to visit so is Pooh Bridge but we didn’t have time to go there. Not exactly Tudor, but great fun to see these places anyway.

Arundel castle is the very image of a great and imposing fortress and was the inspiration behind a great Gothic novel “Gormenghast” by Mervyn Peake. It is home to the Duke of Norfolk, the premier Catholic family in England and the heriditary Earl Marshall of England (that means he is responsible for all state occasions) The Castle is just huge with a great Norman keep, a classic great hall, medieval parts and an English Civil war display as the castle was besieged at that time. There are also some private bedrooms, a great library and some dynastic portraits. It also has on display the necklace and girdle that belonged to Mary Queen of Scots.

The 3rd Duke was uncle to both Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, both executed wives of Henry VIII , the Duke was also due to meet the executioner but Henry died the night before his appointment with the block. The 4th Duke was executed by Elizabeth for plotting to marry Mary Queen of Scots.

We are staying at The Whiter Hart in Lewes the County town of East Sussex and where Thomas Paine wrote and debated “ The Rights of Man”. It was here on the terrace with a fabulous sunlit view of the South Downs that we had a talk and a weapons demonstration from “ Hands on History” a partner company that specialises in Historic detail on weapons and ordinary life.

It was hugely entertaining and one of our party got dressed up in armour, the full helmet and gauntlets too. Everybody got to feel and touch all the weapons and armour that we had been seeing all week but behind glass display cabinets. Weapons included the classic English war bow with a variety of arrow types , the cavalry sabre, the mace, the rapier and the war hammer.

Also there were samples of everyday materials and animal products such as a horn drinking vessel, animal sinew, sheeps wool, silk, hemp for rope making and a complete fox fur.

We had terrific curry dinner at a local Indian restaurant only a few minutes walk from the hotel, amazingly one of our party had not eaten curry before.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Hever & Penshurst

Day9 Hever & Penshurst

Today we drive south out of London to the high Weald of Kent to Hever Castle, the childhood home of Anne Boleyn deep in the heart of Kent. Hever, is a great place to visit with huge ornamental gardens and lake built by JJ Astor in the early 1900’s.

The castle itself is very small but packed with paintings, tapestries and furniture together with Henry VIII and all the six wives costumes. One of the most curious paintings is of Elizabeth I but it appears to have been doctored with a huge ruff that frames her face. The painting also looks very much like a painting of Lady Jane Grey we saw at Syon house at the beginning of the tour, I would love to see the painting x-rayed to see if it has been doctored at all.

There were lots of school parties around the place and most of the boys were just looking for the torture room. Hever features in nearly all the Tudor period films and TV series, there is one scene in Anne of a Thousand days where Henry and Anne ride out of the castle over a low grassy hill. It looks very real except the grassy hill bit.

A great deal of filming of period pieces takes place at nearby Penshurst place, many scenes from Anne of a thousand days and the other Boleyn Girl were filmed there. Penshurst has been in the Sidney family for 500 years. Both of the great houses were given to Anne of Cleves as part of the divorce settlement and Elizabeth I stayed here a great deal, so much so that she neglected ruling the country. It is here we find the famous “La Volta” painting. To me it shows very real evidence of the close and intimate relationship between Elizabeth and Robert Dudley, you’ll have to see it for yourselves to see what I mean.

Tonight we’re staying in the Rose and Crown in Tonbridge and after dinner we had a gentle stroll around the ancient Norman castle of Tonbridge which is just opposite.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Wednesday 8 June 2011

Westminster Abbey & The Tower of London

Day7 London Town.

The centre of London is easy to get around on the tube network, the nearest station to the Mad Hatters hotel is Southwark and just one stop away is Westminster Abbey. Steeped in the nation’s history for 1000 years, the abbey has been the coronation site for all our sovereigns since Edward the Confessor, William the conqueror was also crowned here hastily Christmas 1066.

There have been many royal weddings here and the last one was Prince William and Catherine Middleton in April of this year. There is a superb photo exhibition of the event in the chapter house, very good quality and very large prints. A very happy event for the young couple and the nation.

The Abbey also contains the tombs of 10 of our Sovereigns, including Edward the Confessor, Henry V. Henry VII and his queen Elizabeth of York lay together in the Lady chapel. Elizabeth I and her sister Mary lay side by side in a small chapel off the Lady chapel. Mary Queen of Scots now lies in a huge Gothic tomb much grander than Elizabeth on the other side of the Lady Chapel. She was at Peterborough Cathedral but her son James I had her moved to London at the start of the Stuart Dynasty.

After a magnificent State funeral, Anne of Cleves lies here under the main alter stage in a tomb somewhat hard to find with only some small gold lettering to mark her resting place. She outlived all the wives and was a wealthy woman as a result of the Divorce from Henry VIII.

A boat journey down the river Thames takes us right to Traitors Gate, we see it from the water level just as Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard would have seen it before they entered the Tower of London.

Another historic site steeped in the nation’s History, the Tower of London is a huge area in the centre of London and has many splendid exhibitions and things to see. The Crown Jewels, the Bloody Tower, the White Tower and the scaffold site, where only 8 people have been executed, three of which were Queens of England, Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard and Lady Jane Grey.

We had dinner at the Swan at the Globe only 10 minutes walk along the Thames from the hotel and after saw “Much ado about Nothing” one of Shakespeare’s great comedies. It was rip roaringly funny and this reconstruction of the famous theatre means that you are so close to the action that you are almost part of the cast. A great way to finish a busy day.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Tuesday 7 June 2011

Peterborough and Cambridge

Day 6 Peterborough Cathedral & Cambridge
Up early today for a short drive to Peterborough Cathedral for a group tour to see the last resting place of Catherine of Aragon. The Cathedral is one of the most magnificent buildings in England, there has been a church on this site since the year 649. It has a fantastic painted roof in the knave and has huge columns supporting the roof.

Catherine of Aragon rests under a simple slab and in the 19th century all women called Catherine were asked to make a small donation to fund a suitable memorial to a much loved queen of England. We all placed a sprig of rosemary we took from the knot garden at Buckden Towers on the black marble slab, where there were also a few pomegranates laid in memory of her . We had a memorable tour of the cathedral with our guide for the morning who gave us a great deal more information and stories on the founding and characters of this great church.

On to Cambridge where we visited Kings College chapel in my view the Greatest of Henry VIII’s building legacies. There is a guide book just for the great stained glass windows alone. The building just has to be the most fantastic I have visited and it has many unique features, the first being the largest fan vaulted roof and in the side exhibition there is a model of how it is constructed. Evidence of two of Henry’s wives are to be found here, Anne Boleyn’s initials are carved on the provost stall now why were they left here when all evidence of her has just about completely removed. High up in the east window we can see Katherine’s initials above the red dragon of Wales.

Also to be found carved on the quire stalls are some Tudor roses the 5 petal distinctive rose we find anywhere. However as I found out on a couple of weeks ago at Tong church (see an earlier blog) sitting there amid all this fine carving sits a Tudor rose not with the five petals but with a smiley face, I kid you not, even the curator was unaware that it existed.

On to London, pausing for a few minutes and chasing around Kings Cross station we eventually found platform 9 and ¾ and we all took posed photos. We’re staying for the next two nights at the Mad Hatters Hotel right near the Thames at Blackfriars Bridge. It used to be a hat factory and it’s has location only a few minutes walk from the Globe Theatre. We had Fish and chips at the George Inn the oldest galleried pub in London where Shakespeare played before he built the Globe theatre.

We had a gentle stroll to the pub and back again taking in some of the landmarks that Charles Dickens would have known as a child, including Nancy’s steps, the only bit of wall left from the Marshallsea prison and Southwark Cathedral.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Catherine of Aragon day

Day 6 Kenilworth & Catherine of Aragon day
Kenilworth Castle was the scene of the greatest party in Tudor times. The summer progress of 1571 when Robert Dudley Earl of Leicester spent millions in today’s money and three weeks trying to persuade Queen Elizabeth to marry him, all to no avail.
The castle is a ruin now blown up by Cromwell’s troops during the English Civil War but still gives the feeling of power and majesty. The gate house is habitable and houses a good exhibition of that Royal progress together with the story of the mysterious death of Amy Robsart, Robert Dudley’s first wife who was found dead at the foot of a flight of steps.

We had two private tours today one at Buckden Towers where Catherine of Aragon was held before being moved to Kimbolton. Buckden is a shining jewel in the Tudor world, Red brick built and with battlements too. The place is a Claritian missionary centre since the 1950’s and they have kept the historic faith of the importance that it’s association with Catherine of Aragon. The friends of Buckden have recreated the privvy knot garden that Catherine would have walked in. Our thanks go to the friends of Buckden and we hope to see you again soon.

Our second private tour was at Kimbolton where Catherine of Aragon spent the last twenty months of her life and subsequently died. Kimbolton is now a school and only opens for special appointments and we are grateful for the opportunity to stand in the room where Catherine died and is said to haunt. The place was remodelled in the 1700’s rather like Syon house the first place we visited on tour. Our driver for the day wanted the post code to program his Sat Nav (GPS)” just go to the village you can’t miss it.” As we drove around the bend into the village he said “ I see what you mean” the place is huge and dominates the village from the far end of the main street.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Sunday 5 June 2011

Sudeley Castle & Coughton Court

Day 5 Sudeley Castle, Stratford on Avon and Coughton Court.
Today the weather has cooled down a bit so walking around is very pleasant. Sudeley Castle was first today, the home of Catherine Parr, the last wife of Henry VIII. She died here a week after childbirth when she was married to Thomas Seymour and she is laid to rest in the church next to the castle in a splendid tomb quiet befitting of a Queen of England.

The Castle was destroyed by Cromwell’s troops during the Civil War and stayed a ruin until it was rescued by the present owner’s descendents in the early 1800’s. Presently there are costumes from David Starkey’s six wives of Henry VIII TV series. There’s also a new exhibition made for children that shows the visit of Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn.

Sudeley has beautiful grounds and an amazing collection of peacocks from all round the world. It was here, somewhere in the grounds, that Thomas Seymour took advantage of a young Princess Elizabeth when she was about 14 years old, it was in fact child abuse and Catherine finally sent Elizabeth away.

On to Stratford-on-Avon, the birthplace of William Shakespeare, just so see the houses where he was born and died. All in the group said that there were too many tourists n the town so we only really viewed the house where he died. There is an archaeological dig going on to excavate and find out more about the house. The artefacts they have found are on display in the house.

On to Coughton Court ( pronounced coat-en) the home of the Throckmorton family for 600 years. The house is simply a magnificent example of what can be preserved when one family owns the same property for generations. The Throckmorton’s are a catholic family and were involved in many intrigues during the Tudor period culminating in the Gunpowder plot and there are many priest holes about the place.
Bess Throckmorton got married to Sir Walter Raleigh, much to Queen Elizabeth’s displeasure and was banished here form court. After Raleigh was executed in the Tower Bess was said to have carried his head around for the next 25 years of her life. In the yellow drawing room they have a head in a canvass bag under the table just to scare the visitors.

The real heart of the place is the chemise worn by Mary Queen of Scots when she was executed, the gown has been carbon dated and is of the correct date and if you catch the light correctly there are stains visible. Right next to this is the Bishops gown actually made by Catherine of Aragon and her ladies. Again the gown has been authenticated. It is a magnificent piece of work and was found in one of the priest holes by pure chance when some renovation work was being carried out. It gives me a quick heartbeat just to look at this work held by a beloved Queen of England.

We stayed the night in an old coaching inn, Milsoms Hotel in Old Kenilworth built in 1538 around an Oak tree. We had dinner right across the street in even an older pub called the Famous Virgins and castle.

Friday 3 June 2011

Windsor & Oxford

Day 4 Windsor & Oxford

A free morning to wander around this Royal town on a sunny morning or watch the changing of the Guard ceremony at Windsor castle. The guards were magnificent in their scarlet tunics and the band played the “Great Escape” as they come out of the castle.

On to the University town of Oxford with many famous colleges. Christ Church College formally called cardinal college after Cardinal Wolsey. Henry VIII changed the name after Wolsey failed to get the divorce he wanted. Many famous people have been to Christ Church among them, a certain Charles Dodgson or more famously known as Lewis Carol, author of Alice in Wonderland. One of the windows in the Great Hall has been created in the 1970’s to show all the characters from the Alice tales. The Great Hall was also where Michele Obama gave a speech to some schoolgirls last week.

Magdalen a college, features a previous student, a young Thomas Wolsey. The chapel has all superb sepia stained glass windows which is very unusual if not unique. Also in Oxford is the memorial to the Martyrs Thomas Cranmer, Nicholas Ridley and Hugh Latimer, burned at the stake by bloody Queen Mary.

On to Tewkesbury to stay the night in the Tudor House hotel dating from 1540 and where the Pilgrim Fathers stayed before embarking for the new world. We had a splendid dinner in the hotel dining room finished off with port and stilton.

Thursday 2 June 2011

Hampton Court Palace and Windsor

Day 3-

Hampton Court Palace, perhaps the most famous palace in the English speaking world, was our first visit today. We got there just after the door opened and we were the only people in the Great Hall so great was the silence in that ancient hall that we were whispering to each other so as not to break the magic spell of the moment.

The place is just vast and plenty to see and watch with many exhibitions and paintings of the Tudor period. The Palace was owned by Cardinal Wolsey until Henry VIII one day being rowed by said to Wolsey what a nice place you have here. Wolsey, who was spending lavishly and so much so that the Palace outshone anything Henry had. He gave the Palace to Henry as a gift which was very generous but Wolsey was a very wealthy man.

There was a new series of playlets put on, this time it was the King’s marriage to Catherine Howard and to see them puts the children in awe of the man and place. You are encouraged to shout “God save the King “ a lot. The actors are very entertaining and engage the crowd a lot, we had to leave before the end of the day to travel to Windsor castle.

Windsor the home of our present Sovereign Queen Elizabeth II and the largest inhabited castle in the world. It’s huge but you only get to see the State apartments, we got there just as the gates were closing so we went through with the last wave of visitors.

Some rooms were crowded and some were empty but the real Tudor heart are the portraits of Henry VIII Mary Elizabeth and James. The Dynastic portrait with Jane Seymour, Anne Boleyn , the Field of the cloth of Gold. That last one has a new head of Henry VIII sewn into the painting and when the light is on it looks very peculiar.

We had dinner at a family run Greek Restaurant called Latinos and a very nice full table meze for everybody. We’re staying tonight at the Sir Christopher Wrens House hotel right on tye Thames under the ramparts of the castle.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

The Vyne and Syon House

Day 2.
The Vyne near Basingstoke is a really fine example of a Tudor mansion and has two very important pieces of history here. It has been remodelled in the 1700’s but it still retains the fine oak panelling in the long gallery with many unique carvings. Some are of Henry VII some are Catherine of Aragon’s pomegranate. There are some to Sir Thomas More and Bishop Fox and the detail is really intricate.

The other important feature are the stained glass windows in the chapel. The windows feature Henry and Catherine of Aragon and initially were in a church nearby but were taken down and hidden in a pond during the civil war to prevent Cromwell’ s troops from destroying them. They are both kneeling praying to the relative patron saints and fit the chapel beautifully.

I always talk to the room guides as there are usually snippets of information to be gathered. This time it was the very name of the Vyne I found out. It seems that when the Romans were in England in the year 400 there was a settlement here and they planted the very first grapevines in England so it’s been called the Vyne ever since.


On to Syon House, the home of the Duke of Northumberland for 500 years. Henry V laid the foundations in 1415 and devoted the Abbey to the Priory of Syon. This house is very important in Tudor terms. Lady Jane Grey was proclaimed Queen here in the Long Gallery, The house has been remodeeled in the 1700's and the gallery has had it’s original panelling removed but if you keep in your mind’s eye the long gallery at the Vyne then that fateful day 500 years ago can be relived. Catherine Howard was held here on her way to the Tower of London after her arrest. Catherine of Aragon came here often to pray when it was an Abbey and Anne Boleyn railed against the Abbess and the Nuns for their “wanton incontinence”

Henry VIII’s funeral cortege stopped here on it’s way to Windsor and the coffin leaked during the night and his entrails fell over the floor that were eaten by a dog, Thus fulfilling and earlier prophecy ...Yeuk!

We had dinner at the Swan Inn right on the river Thames at Staines and we stayed at the Anne Boleyn Hotel just across the street for the Swan in The Hythe Staines a quiet little street in a conservation area.

www.tudorhistoryoturs.com

Wednesday 1 June 2011

Houses of Parliament

Hats off to our latest guests, one of whom expressed an idea to visit the Houses of Parliament pre tour. So with grateful thanks to our Local Member, our Guests arrived on long haul flights early in the morning and went straight into the palace of Westminster.

It was really interesting, the last time I went to Westminster I was 14 years old and went on a school trip. Now with very different eyes we got to go to the very heart of Govenment and see the behind the scenes stuff that is the every day workday houses of Parliament.

Parliament wasn't sitting so we went into the main chambers of the Lords and Commons and they are both much smaller than they look on the TV and a very intimate places.

The building is not really that old, built in the 1840's but the great hall of Westminster is medieval and steeped in History and continues to be the place where things happen. Only last week the president of the United States gave a speech to both houses together. In Tudor terms it was where Thomas more was tried and condemned to death as was King Charles I.

All in all a good pre tour visit.

www.tudorhistoryoturs.com