Tuesday 29 December 2009

Wesminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey was first consecrated December 28 1065 about nine months before the Battle of Hastings. William the Conqueror was crowned here and it has used ever since for the coronation of the Sovereign.
It houses the last remains of 10 Royal Soveriegns, Elizabeth I, Mary Queen of Scots and Anne of Cleves to name but a few of the Britains most powerful and Pious.
It was stripped of its consecrated status by Henry VIII during the Dissolution but was converted by Elizabeth into a " Royal Peculiar" a church responsible to the Sovereign.
It is very much a modern church too, keeping up with the times. Above the main door there are statues of 20th Century martyrs that includes Martin Luther King jr.

To hear carols or evensong in the Abbey is a moving experience and to think that services have been held here for nearly a thousand years.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Sunday 27 December 2009

I Like her Not !

It was on this day in 1539 that Henry VIII first set eyes on Anne of Cleves. It was at the Bishops Palace in Rochester Kent and Henry was impatient to see his intended bride. He was in disguise which fooled no one but they all played the part anyway. He came away from the meeting crestfallen and said "I like Her not." He then met her formally on New years day but I think by that time the image had been created of her as the Flanders Mare.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and there is no accounting for taste. All sorts of cliches could be made but in the Henry VIII special exhibition still on at Windsor castle there are some water and pin colour sketches of his wives painted by Holbien on display. These are magnificent in detail and Anne of Cleves does not look unattractive at all in comparison to the others. This could be the brush deceiving the eye or she could have been exactly as portrayed either way Henry just did not fancy her but went through with the marraige for the good of the country.

Anne of Cleves out lived all the other wives but after Henry died she was treated very poorly by Parliament depiving her of the money that was rightfully hers by the divorce settlement. She is entombed in Westminster Abbey.

Tuesday 15 December 2009

Wolf Hall

Wolf Hall, not the new Booker Prize winning novel by Hillary Mantel about Thomas Cromwell. Wolf Hall in Wiltshire is the home of Jane Seymour third wife of Henry VIII and mother of Edward VI. Wolf Hall was recorded in the Domesday book of 1086 as Ulfela. Unfortunately there's not much left of the original building. The present building dates from the Victorian period. It's a large house set back from the narrow twisting road surrounded by large trees with a number of farm buildings all around.
The great barn that held the Wedding feast of Henry VIII and Jane survived until the 1920's and was destroyed by fire, there are photos of the Barn showing what it was like still available.
St Mary's church at Great Bedwyn a couple of miles away holds the tomb of Jane's father John. Above him is a stained glass window commemorating the wedding of Henry and Jane and dating from that time which came from the original house and was reset into the Church in 1901. John was also father to Thomas who married Catherine Parr after Henry died and was uncle and Protector of Edward VI.
Great Bedwyn is a Roman settlement but there is a chalk barrow indicating that the place has been inhabited for centuries before that. It was a city under the Saxons and appears in the Domesday book but was not assessed or tithed.

Jane was not high born but achieved the one thing that Henry wanted above all else, a son.





www.tudorhistorytours.com

Thursday 26 November 2009

The Great Storm

This week on 24 November sees the anniversary of the official celebration of the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588. That defeat, put down mostly to the superb seamanship and gunnery skills of the Navy but the great storm was the decisive factor, scattering the Spanish fleet and forcing it to get home around Scotland.

These last two weeks we have witnessed some dreadful storms and flooding in Britain, even the channel port of Dover was closed due to the heavy seas. If a modern ship with engines and stabilisers could not manage the rough channel what would it have been like in a Spanish Galleon relying on sails and oars for motive power?

The Armada was becalmed for a while off the Sussex coast near Fairlight, finally sailing away on the 27th July. People of a Puritan cast of mind in Sussex at this time were naming their children with rigorously uplifting names. On July 28th with the Armada sailing away William Durrant and his wife of Warlbleton took their son to church and christened him Bethankfull and four days later Thomas and Mary Holman christened their son Preserved.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Friday 20 November 2009

The Tower of London.

Steeped in the nations history for a thousand years, the Tower of London is one of the world's premier tourist destinations. It can be very busy on some summer days but if you pick your day and time to go it can be a brilliant place to visit.

The Crown Jewels can be the most busy place with the queue snaking its way around the courtyard but don't be put off by that there are plenty of other places to go and you can come back to the Crown Jewels, once inside the chamber there are travellators (moving pavements)on each side of the glass cases so if you want to study these you have to go along a few times. There is a fixed platform at the back to stop and stare with some picture boards to know what you're looking at. There were two copy sets of the Jewels made during WWII just in case! and one copy was said to have been kept at Upnor castle in Kent and is one of the places we visit on our Elizabeth tour.

The centre piece of the White tower is the Henry VII exhibition and to see his armour astride a white charger is a jaw dropping moment when you walk into the room.

The scaffold site on tower green, the place where Anne Bolyen, Catherine Howard, Lady Jane Grey, Walter Raleigh and a few notable others were executed has an evocative scuplture and when you listen to the audio guide and hear actors speak the last words of the condemned it raises the hairs on the back of your neck.

The battlements walk is a must and it takes you through the medieval palace through the guard tower and places where other famous prisoners have been held and finally the old jewel tower.

There are many places to see and to wander round the inner walls of this famous place that will find something of interest for any body. They do say that the average British person vists the place three times in their lives, once as a child, once as a parent and once as a grandparent.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Friday 13 November 2009

Henry VIII and the codpiece

This being Friday 13th and the feast eve of St. Homobonus the patron saint of tailors it seems fitting that the codpiece should rate a mention. They were sported by European Aristocrats including Henry VIII from the 1540's to 1580's and a prominant symbol of fashion virility, men would have larger and more elaborate ones to outdo each other.(no change there then)
Henry VIII's armour on display at Windsor castle has one and the belief was that women wishing to conceive should touch it with a pin. Which should have pleased him. Though during his lifetime he might have been a little insecure, why else would he introduce a law that limited the size of a gentlemans codpiece to 10inches.( New worlds, Lost worlds the rule of the Tudors. by Susan Brigden).


www.tudorhistorytours.com

Monday 9 November 2009

Lewes Bonfire night

The County town of Lewes was crammed full of 50,000 revellers to celebrate the 5th November 2009. The streets were closed to traffic and for the first time Southern rail were not putting on extra trains to cope. The result was, cars were parked on the roads side of all roads leading to Lewes. (that was a clever strategy to try to keep people away). 16,000 people did come by rail as it happens.

Why Lewes? The origins go back to 1606 the year after the plot a bonfie was held on Cliffe hill not far from where the martyrs monument stands. Things got out of hand in the early 1800's and a special act of Parliament was made in 1847 that enabled special constables to be sworn in during periods of Public rejoicing, procession, illumination and thronging.

For the faint hearted, the streets of Lewes are thronged and when the processions pass by the marchers are apt to drop some very loud bangers,the heat from the flaming barrels being manually towed along is intense, so, not the place to be if you have a nervous disposition.

The processions are a wonder, marchers in costume carrying lighted torches and pulling tableau with the topical hate figure. If you look up School Hill from Cliffe it is like a river of fire coming to meet you. The costumes are fantastic ranging from Ancient Greeks, Mongols, Spanish, Mexican, Elizabethan, Native American Indians, and Zulus,
(what is it with the British and Zulus?).

The hate figures in tableau this year were fat cat bankers and a certain Politician who was ordered to pay back £16,000 in wrongly calimed expenses.

The most poignant part of the processions was the 17 burning crosses representing the 17 Protestant martyrs burned to death in Lewes during the Marian period. The Crosses are carried through the streets and can look very wierd for the casual visitor.

There is also a fiery phrase carried that says "Sussex wont be druv" which as far as can be translated is that people in Sussex can be led but not pushed.

Some folks as comes to Sussex,
They rackon as they knows
A darn sight better what to do
Then silly folks like me and you
could possibly suppose.
But them that comes to Sussex
They mustn't push and shove,
For Sussex will be Sussex,
and Sussex won't be druv.

(W.Victor Cook) the verse goes on but you get the idea.

There are 6 different Bonfires and firework displays and they are all magnificent if you pick the right spot in the town you can see at least three displays at roughly the same time.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Monday 2 November 2009

Bloody Mary and the Protestant martyrs.

"When William Mainarde, his maid and man,
Margery Mories, and her son,
Denis Burges, Stevens and Woodman,
Grove's wife, and Ashdon's to death were done,
When one fire at Lewes brought them death,
We wished for our Elizabeth."

June 22 1557 10 protestants were burned to death in one fire outside the town hall in the centre of Lewes during the Reign of Mary "Bloody Mary" Tudor. But the people of Lewes had to wait more than a year to get their wish. She died on 17th November 1558 and Elizabeth became Queen.
Mary was a Catholic just like her mother Catherine of Aragon and wanted to get the country back to the true faith and took extreme measures to get the country back to Papal supremacy. A great many protestants were executed in the most grisly manner during her reign.
There were a total of seventeen protestant martyrs burned in Lewes During Mary's reign and there are several memorials to them in and around the town. The remembrance of these martyrs is still made during the Bonfire night celebrations on the 5th November when the torchlit processions pause at the the town centre memorial. The whole celebrations give a peculiar anti-Papal feeling, especially when the Cardinal is booed through the streets.

Everyone likes a good firework display and there are 6 to chose from in Lewes on the night of the 5th, the town looks like a war zone!


www.tudorhistorytours.com

Thursday 29 October 2009

The Gunpowder plot 1605

The Bonfire Chant.
Remember, remember the 5th of November, for Gunpowder Treason and Plot...
I see no reason why gunpowder treason should ever be forgot.
Guy Fawkes, Guy, ‘twas his intent, to blow up the King and Parliament.
Three score barrels he laid below to prove old England’s overthrow.
By God’s mercy he was catched with a dark lantern and a lighted match.
Holla boys, holla boys, let the bells ring.
Holla boys, holla boys, God save the King.

The Gunpowder plot of 1605 was only two years after ELizabeth's death but the seeds were sown as far back as 1571. There were a total of ten plots from 1571 to 1603. Mary Queen of Scots was executed in 1587 and that led to the Spanish Armada. Religious ferment was never very far away with the catholics hoping for a return to the one true faith. The Gunpowder plot was intended to blow up the King and replace him with a catholic usurper.

Here in Sussex the 5th of November is celebrated in real style with the County town of Lewes closed for the day and 50,000 people crowd in to see 6 different torchlit processions, bonfires and firework displays. Bonfire societies from all over Sussex converge to parade in their costumes in the Grand Parade.

All in all a fantastic spectacle and one that puts the pollution monitors into overdrive for a few days.


www.tudorhistorytours.com

Monday 26 October 2009

Firle Place

We are in the middle of the Bonfire season in Sussex to celebrates the Gunpowder Plot of 1605 and last weekend it was the turn of Firle village.
Firle Place is the ancestral home of the Gage family, was originally a Tudor mansion and is on our tour itenerary next year.
John Gage was the Constable of the Tower of London and was responsible to organise the execution of Catherine Howard, Henry VIII's 5th wife. Major General Thomas Gage was the Commander-in-Chief of the British forces during the American war of Independence.

Sussex has a proud tradition of celebrating the Gunpowder plot, most towns and villages have a bonfire society that raises money throughout the year with profits being donated to charity, each society holds an alloted bonfire night and torchlit procession during the season. The season starts on the 6th September and the culmination of all of these is the county town of Lewes for a mamouth night of celebration where all the societies gather on the 5th November. Uniquely in Sussex Firle Bonfire and firework display was held in the private grounds of Firle place and it was a fantastic display set to music.

A few things to explain before looking at the web photos. The whole thing is of course historically anti-catholic and no Popery here, that accounts for the burning crosses. The two priests on the scaffold are there to harrangue the crowd before the fireworks are set off. Whilst they are doing this the locals are throwing fireworks at them (and scoring hits), it is considered to be a great honour to chosen as the priests.

Each society choses a costume theme for a couple of years and Firle have a Mexican theme. There are also the bonfire boys dressed as smugglers(hooped shirts) and each society has its own colours.
Every year a hate figure is chosen to be the tableau pulled through the streets. This year it was Peter Andre and his ex wife Jordan (aka Katie Price). A mediocre singer and ex glamour model with huge implants who met on a reality TV show. These tableau are full of explosives and fireworks which get set off seperately from the main display.

As for jumping the fire, well that's just insane!

enjoy the photos



www.firlebonfire.com

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Friday 23 October 2009

Catherine of Aragon

We're very pleased and lucky to able to include in our Six wives tours next year, a couple of very special places relating to Catherine of Aragon. The two places are near to each other and are Buckden Towers and Kimbolton castle.
Buckden Towers is where Catherine was living for some time before she was moved to Kimbolton Castle where she died in 1536. The Duke of Suffolk under Henry's orders came to remove her to Fotheringhay in December 1533, but the stout men of Buckden carrying billhooks and choppers defended her and the Duke backed down. Henry VIII himself with Catherine Howard visited the place in 1541
Buckden Towers is now a Claretian missionary centre and does allow limited visiting, there is a friends group that raises funds by putting on Tudor days festival in September and other events through the year. It is a real jewel from the Tudor period in the heart of the Huntingdon countryside and a peaceful place to visit.
Kimbolton Castle is now a school and not generally open to the public, so we are very pleased to be able to visit by special arrangement. The chapel where Catherine was embalmed is still there, other parts of the original castle are still remain but it was rebuilt in the 1700's. but what a place to go to school!.
Kimbolton parish church nearby is unique, it has the only Tiffany stained glass window in a parish Church in England, it is superb and is included on our tour.
Our grateful thanks to the staff of both for allowing us to visit.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Thursday 15 October 2009

Dover Castle

The new Henry II Keep exhibition was the centre piece of a hugely enjoyable visit to Dover castle organised by English Heritage and Visit Kent to show off the new exibition to people from tourism and travel organisations
Henry II was actually our guide for the morning taking us through the keep and showing off his state rooms, bedchamber,guest rooms and halls together with kitchen, bakery and brewery in the basement. Henry II the great grandson of William the Conqueror in his red regal robes was truly inspiring to have as our guide, full of anecdotes and wit. With smoke from real log fires,we were easily transported back to the 1180's and his court.
Dover castle is huge and has a commanding view over the Channel right over to France. There is plenty for everyone with events throughout the year. It is divided into five distinct areas. Early Roman and Saxon history, Medieval Dover. Dover's defences, Garrison life and finally Dover at war, the secret wartime undergroud tunnels.
There are extensive wartime tunnels dating back to 1797 and were greatly extended leading up to the second world war. The evacuation of the British army from Dunkirk in 1940 was planned from these very underground vaults.
An excellent day and place to visit and thanks to those involved in planning the day.


www.tudorhistorytours.com

Monday 12 October 2009

Battle of Hastings 2009

With the help of over four hundred enactors including some cavalry and together with several thousand spectators the 1066 Battle of Hastings was re-enacted on the original site at Battle over the weekend.
Not exactly Tudor, but none the less a seminal moment in the nation's history and only about a dozen miles from here.
It was well worth going to see with lots of side attractions including a kids battle on the south lawn. Two lines of eager kids from 3 to 12 years old glaring and screaming their war cries at each other, rattling their plastic swords on their wooden shields before coming together in a chaotic melee.
There was cavalry demonstrations, falconry, story telling and medieval music in the Abbey ruins, have a go archery and skill at arms displays to keep everyone amused.
The re-enactors camp next to the battlefield was full of authentic scenes with tents, cooking pots suspended over wood fires, children filling sausages though a cows horn, toddlers playing with belts and buckles. Men playing a board game, sharpening swords and burnishing their armour. There was even a small Viking longship of the type that Duke William would have used to transport his army across the channel
Now the curious thing was, when the time came to get tooled up for the fight it was all done in near silence. All the warriors were in small groups putting on their chain mail and armour, choosing helmets, sheilds and the rest of their equipment with hardly any chatter or bravado. It must have very much the same during the build up to the real thing 943 years ago.
The crowd played their part, booing Duke William when he was introduced and when he won, (on the several occasions we,ve been to the battle he always gets booed, don't know why)
The battle produced clashing shield walls, cold steel sword fights, flying arrows and the thunder of horses hooves charging up to the shield wall of the Saxons, they must have been very brave men to have withstood a charge like that.
A hugely enjoyable family day out and well done to the English Heritage team that produced the weekend.


www.tudorhistorytours.com

Monday 5 October 2009

Chesworth House

I tried to get Chesworth House in Horsham West Sussex on my tour itenerary for next year but with no sucess.
Chesworth House is where Catherine Howard was brought up and the place where she was supposed to have had a little dalliance shall we say.
Not a really big place and until very recently the House was a wedding venue with beautiful lawns and a chapel but is now in private ownership. I went to visit the owner who is not English to try and include it on my six wives tour. The owner was aware of the historic importance of the house but was not inclined to be part of my plans.
A bit of a let down really but I will try again and keep trying as it is one of those places that is still standing and off the tourist trail.


www.tudorhistorytours.com

Friday 2 October 2009

Tudor days at Upnor castle

Tudor days weekend festival at Upnor castle near Rochester in Kent. This festival,includes Archery displays, a campagn encampment, pedlars, jesters and knights in armour having at each other in deadly combat. One poor knight did actually get a glancing blow during one melee that needed the assistance of the first aiders and a visit to the loacl A&E department. We were actually graced with the presence of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth I who was visting for the day to the only castle she ordered to be built. Children were spellbound by her presence and the grown ups too. All in all it was a very good day with fine weather.

English Heritage look after this castle which really did see action in the dutch raid of 1667.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Thursday 1 October 2009

Hatfield House

Went to Hatfield House, the childhood home of Elizabeth I last weekend and what a place it is. The weather was warm and sunny and the light for takling photos was superb. There was a wedding on in the Old Palace so we couldn't go inside but the outside was majestic in the sunlight.
In The main House there was a TV company filming a Miss Marples episode but were resting on the day we were there. However in the great Hall the famous Rainbow painting of Elizabeth I was missing. Oh No it wasn't, it was hidden behind a specially built wall to protect it from the TV arc lights. Well this wall was an Oak contruction right up until you touched it, the reality-it was plastic, but not even the rooms guides knew that. Look out for the next installment of Miss Marples you won't see the join.


www.tudorhistorytours.com

Tuesday 29 September 2009

Visit to Kennilworth

We went to Kennilworth over the weekend to see the new Elizabeth gardens that English Heritage have painstakingly researched and recreated.
The castle itself is huge and mostly in ruins, only the gatehouse and stable block are in use and there is a very good exhibition of the life of the castle and who lived there. The gate house has been restored to the setting of the people who lived in there in the 1930's together with an exhibition of Elizabeth I and Robert Dudley Earl of Leicester. This is very good and holds your interest well throughout.
The real centrepiece of the visit was the knot gardens. The privy gardens that Dudley created to impress Elizabeth in the summer progress of 1575. They are superb, and the sort of place that you can go back to at different times of the year and see something different. next year the plants will be a little bit more mature and will be a splendid site in the springtime.

We also went to see Kimbolton Castle and Buckden Towers, two places that are important in the later life of Catherine of Aragon. Buckden is a tranquil place that is now owned by the Claretian Missionaries and Kimbolton has been a school for a number of years and is not generally open to the public. In the nearby parish church there is the only Tiffany stained glass window in a parish church in England and worth a little look.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Wednesday 23 September 2009

Henry VIII study day at Parham House Sussex.

I had a superb day yesterday at Parham House near Storrington in Sussex built in 1557.see www.parhaminsussex.co.uk.
A whole day set aside to study all about Henry VIII and how he lived, how splendid is that?
Sitting in the Great hall at Parham full of people and with a larger than life portrait of Robert Dudley Earl of Leicester gazing down on me from one side and Elizabeth I from another was inspiring to say the least.
Author and historian Robert Hutchinson started the day with a talk on Henry and his failing health and ailments later in his life.
Marc Meltonville from Hampton Court Palace kitchens gave a facinating talk on the food prepared for Henry. Dr Sue Berry spoke on the property owning courtiers and how they managed up and down the greasy pole of the Tudor Court.
Professor Maurice Howard talked about the construction and Architecture of Tudor houses. Finally medical man Steve Bacon, not only spoke but gave some practical demonstrations of the perils of letting medical men near you in Tudor times including handing round live leeches for us to inspect!!.

All in all a truly great day in a wonderful setting and thanks to Parham House staff for putting the day on.

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Friday 18 September 2009

Warrior Queen

I went to Upnor castle near Rochester in Kent today. The only Castle that Elizabeth I ordered to be built in her entire Reign. It's mostly still original and is evocative of the Tudor period. It was used in the defence of the Realm right up to the second world war. It is where according to local sources that the immortal words " Britannia Rules The waves" were first spoken when Elizabeth visited the castle.

See the program of tours for next year that will include Elizabeth- The Child, the Lover and Warrior Queen

www.tudorhistorytours.com

Monday 14 September 2009

Elizabeth I famous Armada speech

I made a visit to Tilbury last week to see the Fort and the place where Elizabeth I gave her most stirring speech " I am come amung you...." only by a chance meeting with a great local character who explained where it is and the help of the landowner of the Manor and church was I able to find it. What a surprise it was, after a walk behind the church and through the graveyard to come across an isolated spot with a majestic view over the Thames Estuary. Maybe the locals don't want the spot to be a large tourist attraction as the village pub is called the Kings Head. I do think though that English Heritage should fund a plaque on the spot.